Agentil
friend
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 25
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Hi!
I recently purchased a nice used D'fly with full Campy Record components (a very nice combo!). I'd been having troubles with the front derailleur not wanting to (easily) shift to the larger cog. Like, eventually the shift would occur after pushing hard on the Ergo shifter with my index finger, a bunch of chain grinding and/or if I switched to a smaller cog in the rear.
Anyway, at wits end, I brought the bike to my LBS and they told me that I was missing a threaded barrel or "fine tune" adjustment --- typically a twisty thingy at the front or end of the derailleur cable. The LBS did the "best they could" by adjusting the 2 gate screws on the derailleur itself and "manually" fine tuning further by pulling and/or loosening the cable with pliers, but the shifting, while better, still stinks.
Does anyone have any advise? Is there a fine tuning adjustment in the Ergo shifters that perhaps my LBS (and I!) don't know about. My LBS is a TREK / Dura Ace specialist...'nuff said?
Thanks in advance!
-Andrew
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Jeff_Nichols
journeyman
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 73
Loc: San Jose
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My Tetra Pro came with a very basic barrel adjuster on the derailleur cable stops mounted to the sides of the head tubes. They are apparently aluminum and aren't very good at adjusting the cable tension. Over time they became slightly bent from normal use. I called Calfee about this and they said that this solution wasn't really designed to provide for cable tension adjustment but rather as a reasonable cable stop. Mine look exactly like this tetra image from the calfee site:
If my memory hasn't failed me, they indicated that they prefer to use a newer cable stop that does not use the metal "adjuster" like mine. A good example is this dfly image from the calfee site:
They said that generally speaking, once you get your derailleurs adjusted, you rarely need to make more adjustments and recommended that I simply screw my "adjusters" all the way in and leave them that way. This is what I did and though it may be a bit more difficult to get the front derailleur just right without a barrel adjuster, it is certainly possible. I found this article on the Park Tool site very helpful. In my experience it is not necessary to have a precise amount of initial cable tension for the front derailleur.
My guess is that you have the cable stops like those on the dfly picture. This will prevent you from having a "fine tuning" adjuster for the front derailleur as far as I know. As I've said, the bike shop should be able to get your derailleur working perfectly without the adjuster. In my experience, if a shop says outright that they don't do much Campagnolo work, you'd be much better off in the long run taking that bike to a shop that does.
Good luck.
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Allan
journeyman
Reged: 05/04/04
Posts: 198
Loc: Bds,W I
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Hello Agentil,
While i know that the barrel aduster on the front downtube can offer to take up a little slack or increase it to the front derailleur cable system,if there is a problem with the front shifting,the best thing to do is remove the cable and check for binding in the system components.
The chances are that the front derailleur might be bent slightly in the pivots or just plain stiff, the cable might be sticking in the casing due to a frayed strand or a kinked casing somewhere, and lastly the ergo shift system might have a problem, but this is quite rare with the front shifter ergo.So do a little detective work and check all the components seperately on their own by removing the cable from the casing to isolate the problem area, since there are only three components that control the front shifting,it will not be hard to find out whats wrong.
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Its time to ride.
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