Agentil
friend
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 25
|
|
Hi!
I recently purchased a nice used D'fly with full Campy Record components (a very nice combo!). I'd been having troubles with the front derailleur not wanting to (easily) shift to the larger cog. Like, eventually the shift would occur after pushing hard on the Ergo shifter with my index finger, a bunch of chain grinding and/or if I switched to a smaller cog in the rear.
Anyway, at wits end, I brought the bike to my LBS and they told me that I was missing a "fine tune" adjustment --- typically a twisty thingy at the front or end of the derailleur cable. The LBS did the "best they could" by adjusting the 2 gate screws on the derailleur itself and "manually" fine tuning further by pulling and/or loosening the cable with pliers, but the shifting, while better, still stinks.
Does anyone have any advise? Is there a fine tuning adjustment in the Ergo shifters that perhaps my LBS (and I!) don't know about. My LBS is a TREK / Dura Ace specialist...'nuff said?
Thanks in advance!
-Andrew
|
skuke
captain
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 322
|
|
Andrew,
Are you saying there is no threaded barrel adjuster at the end of the cable housing where it connects to the head tube? If so, the LBS should be able to install one for a few dollars. My LBS gave me a couple to me when I had the cable stops moved from the downtube shifter position to the head tube position like you have. That threaded adjuster is the only "fine" adjustment on the FD.
Another "trick" I read somewhere and have applied to my bike is to angle the front derailleur cage a couple of degrees inward (front end turned in towards centerline of frame). That seems to make for quicker and easier shifts.
--------------------
Skuke
95 Carbonframes Tetra Pro
92 Bridgestone MB-1
90 Moser 51.151
|
skuke
captain
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 322
|
|
You may also want to try posting at the Campy Forum that Kahuna setup on this site. It doesn't seem to get alot of use, but you get a better answer there.
--------------------
Skuke
95 Carbonframes Tetra Pro
92 Bridgestone MB-1
90 Moser 51.151
|
Agentil
friend
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 25
|
|
Hey!
Thanks for the response to my derailleur situation. You're correct about me missind the threaded adjusters on my cables. My LBS did mention the possibility of installing an adjuster for my front derailleur, but I have Nokon cable housings and it's a little tricky but certainly not out of the question.
-A
|
Dave_Thompson
prophet
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 717
Loc: Spokane, Washington
|
|
The threaded adjuster is the only way that you can 'tune' the front dérailleur, and compensate for cable stretch.
--------------------
Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
|
fkozak
new member
Reged: 01/04/04
Posts: 1
|
|
There is another way. Shimano makes an inline cable adjuster. I have one on my Seven Alta as they are made without a provision for a down/head tube adjuster. Your LBS should be able to get you one.
Fred
|
dah
new member
Reged: 01/09/04
Posts: 19
|
|
Are you sure the cage is close enough to the big ring and that the adjustment screws are right? As long as the chain doesn't get thrown over toward the cranks you can keep adjusting the throw to improve the speed. I think the campy shifts better if the f der is no more than 1-2mm above the large ring too.
|
APM
new member
Reged: 01/10/04
Posts: 5
|
|
If you cant get into the big ring, it is probably not the lack of a fine tune that is the cause. You should have enough travel with the lever even with a slightly slack cable to get to the big ring.
Reasons for problems could be -
1. Your outer limit screw needs to be backed off a bit.
2. Your FD is too high above the big ring
3. The FD may be angled incorrectly
You do need the fine tune adjustment to get the minimum sweep for the front derailleur lever. I don't know what everyonbe else does, but on my Record 10 FD I tighten up the fine tune so that there is no slack in the cable when the derailleur is on the inner limit screw. This means that the lever has minimum sweep when you shift from the small ring to the big ring.
You should be able to shift between the rings with one short finger movement, if it feels like you are pushing the lever a long way or you have to have a second push of the lever to get it to shift, you have too much slack in the cable.
|
Agentil
friend
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 25
|
|
You've hit the symptoms right on the head! Lots of pushing and long sweeps on the Ergos. Now, if I could just resolve the fine tuning situation...
One user told me that Calfee's just aren't designed for or intended to accommodate a fine tuning barrel screw adjuster. Does that sound right?
Anyway, it's sounds more and more like the "best" solution is cut into my Nokon cables and utilize a Shimano in-line adjuster.
-A
|
Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
|
|
I have inline adjusters on mine. But I have Shimano cables. I think other people make an inline adjuster too.
Before chopping my cables I'd try another mechanic. I've had problems that one could not fix that another did in minutes. Sometimes it is just if they have encountered that particular problem before. Or where I live people don't have as much experience working on Campy.
|
Agentil
friend
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 25
|
|
I think you may be onto something there (suggestion about trying another bike shop). I'm in the "land of Trek & Shimano". In fact, I don't even think my LBS --- a great crew of folks --- has ever heard of Calfee. Yikes!
Any idea where or how (what's the "official" name of the adjuster) I might be able to locate an in-line adjuster or similar?
-A
|
Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
|
|
Colorado Cyclist used to have them but they don't any longer. There also is the issue if they will work with your cables.
It also could be the cable. Just because they are really expensive doesn't mean they are still sliding nice.
When I first went to Dura-Ace from Ultegra I had Teflon Cables put on as I had used them or Gore in the past. The front derailleur would not shift worth anything. We contacted Shimano and they said it was the cable. That D/A worked best with D/A cable. We switched (and I threw out almost new Teflon cables) and all my problems went away.
Another story when I switched from Ultegra to D/A triple. Great mechanic and he always set the bikes up well. However D/A triple does not set-up the same as Ultegra. He didn't read the directions (25 years experience so who reads directions) so it worked lousy. Then I did a ride and a mechanic friend told me they need to be set-up differently. He started the adjustmets from scratch and I had a great shifting bike. Before it was crap.
That is one more thing. When things don't work right it is usually best to go back to square one and start over. That is what a really good mechanic does. For unknown reasons sometimes the second go around things work that would not work before.
Last but not least call the previous owner if you can. He might have an idea.
In terms of where you order they should be in the Quality Bike Parts Catalog that your LBS can order from.
Good luck.
|
sawbones
new member
Reged: 12/29/03
Posts: 8
Loc: Kern County, California
|
|
In the Calfee assembly instructions, Calfee recommends an inline barrel adjuster. These are made by Jagwire. They do not work with the Nokon cable system. Jagwire also make a mini barrel adjuster, but again it does not work with the Nokon. There is a way to custom make it work with the Nokon by placing one of the adjuster barrel in the cable stop and make it solid so it does not turn on one end.
|
Previous
Thread Index
Next
Threaded
Campy Record - Fine Front Derailleur Adjustment
Edit
Reply
Quote
Re: Campy Record - Fine Front Derailleur Adjustment