Miguel
new member
Reged: 03/12/04
Posts: 1
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I have a Calfee Dragonfly with Record 10. When I shift to a larger cog, the chain skips up to the cog above then slips back to the correct cog. It does this mostly on the larger cogs. I've a 13-29 cog set. If I adjust the cable so it doesn't do that, there is chain noise. I keep the chain pretty clean and oiled. Suggestions?
Thx.
Miguel
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glaucman
new member
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 8
Loc: Germantown, TN
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Miguel this is very odd unless you refer to downshifting (going to larger cogs) three at a time in which case it is not unusual when fully engaging the downshift lever to go beyond "three clicks" and the chain settle back on the third larger cog. However if you are referring to single cog shifts then your cable has too much tension if there are overshifts. How much time is on your shift cable?
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Allan
journeyman
Reged: 05/04/04
Posts: 198
Loc: Bds,W I
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Miguel, i also had this problem at times with my Campy 10 and just as you noted, when you fix one end of the cogset alignment the other side acts up. This situation got even worse when i tried a wipperman s/s 10 speed chain, and yes as you probably are aware, the wipperman chain is a bit wider than the campy C10 and it compounded the problem. So the best solution is to go to a narrower chain than the Campy one,now i have a perfect result with shifting improvements all around with the D/A 10 speed chain. If you care to, read my articles on my findings in the D/A on Campy driveline forum,also lastly, just dont let the Shimanophiles around you know you did it. 
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Its time to ride.
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veloman
new member
Reged: 07/16/04
Posts: 1
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I have had the over shift and noisy chain problem ever since mounting my ’04 Campy Record group. I tried everything, different cables, different housing, every adjustment possible and even checked my frame and hangar alignment on a brand new frame.
Nothing fixed it until I installed a new handlebar the other day. When I took of the Ergo levers, a little piece Campy calls the “Resin Insert” in the manual fell out. It’s the part you have to take out to install the Ergo Brain computer wiring.
Anyway, I inspected the part and it looked fine so I put it back in and finished installing everything and went on a ride. The shifting was worse than ever so I spend the following morning looking more closely at that part.
I discovered that when I tighten the levers to the bars to the proper torque, the “Resin Insert” would deform and the shifting mechanism inside the lever body would press against it. specifically, on the round ratcheted part of the shifting mechanism there is a little allen screw head sticking out which was pressing against the insert. I could see some wear on the insert so was sure I had found the problem. I shifted the bike with the lever loosened and voila, perfect shifting.
My solution was to drill clean through the insert and put a piece of thin, hard rubber between the bar and the very top of the Resin Insert to make clearance for the allen screw head. Enough so it doesn’t press against the bar. After playing with this for a while I got it just right and now my shifting is perfect every time with the Campy 10 hollow pin chain. Even under load!
If you are having shifting and noise issues check this piece in your lever to make sure it’s not rubbing on the shifting mechanism.
Good luck!
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gmason
new member
Reged: 10/30/05
Posts: 8
Loc: Rhone-Alpes, France
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Is the effect of this very subtle (sounds like it), or fairly drastic? I have found that on my 10s, rear der adjustment - which I assumed was the bit always creating minor issues - is the most finicky thing I ever saw on my bikes.
Never had a similar problem on the 9s bikes. Of course on the 9s bikes, we have ErgoBrains installed. 
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Riccardo
new member
Reged: 12/17/05
Posts: 14
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10s are naturally more sensitive to adjustment, there's less slack space to work with. That said, they should work great when well adjusted (can you imagine riding the Tour with this sort of slippery shifting?).
My experience has been that alignment is the problem when when 10s shifting can't be adjusted. There are three places to look at:
1) Bent cage on the derailer.
2) Bent or mis-aligned derailer tab.
3) Twisted bottom bracket (not common).
Generally you can see if a cage is bent - it helps to look at it from behind (on the bike) and turn it on its pivot to see the plane it describes. If its bent, you can usally "adjust" it without tools.
A derailer tab can be easily tested by most bike shops. Park, Campy, Var and others make a tool specifically to test this. On steel dropout, the tool can also be used to adjust the dropout. Aluminum or carbon frames/dropouts should be returned to the manufacturer for repairs. The exception to this is a damaged replaceable derailer tab. This should be replaced even if the derailer action is fine - it's a likely point for eventual failure.
A twisted bottom bracket is rare, but changes the fundamental chainline adjustment pointing it either to the right or left of straight back. The direction opposite from where the chainline points will have problems making smooth consistent single cog shifts.
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