Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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I am in the middle of the process of picking out my new bike (components, etc.) So I thought I'd post my work in progress on here so I could possibly get some suggestions.
After extensive research and comparing specs, geometries and philosophies, I have decided on a Calfee frame. I like the ride characteristics of all carbon and Calfee's in particular. They have been making the frames for quite a while and there are many positive testimonials. Plus, they do offer some cool colors.
After some measurements and fittings, I even contacted Craig Calfee and confirmed the right size for me (and luckily, no custom is required!) Talking to the designer himself (email actually), isn't that great support?
The Luna would be good, the Tetra would be great and the Dragonfly would be excellent! I'll wait and see how the price is looking and come back to this little detail.
Calfee: http://www.calfeedesign.com/
The frame was a big decision but now what? I am definitely a Campy person so I'm looking that way for many components. I like hills but they don't always like me so a 39/53 crank with 13-29 cassette looks good. I initially looked at Record but the steel Chorus is more durable, not much heavier and quite a bit of $$$ savings.
Campy: http://www.campagnolo.com/
I considered Neutrons and then Mavic wheels but I really like the design of the Topolinos. Can you tell that I am a sucker for a good design? It would be reassuring if they had been around longer with more consumer feedback but in this case I may have to try them and report back myself. I would get the clinchers and I neeed to remember to order a spoke magnet from them since their spokes are shaped funny...
Topolino: http://www.topolinotech.com/
Currently I am having a hard time deciding between the Reynolds Ouzo Pro and the Alpha Q Sub 3 forks. They are both carbon forks with good comfort and ride characteristics. The Alpha Q does weigh less but Reynolds is the standard and has many positives. This is the fork, so comfort and stability are definitely the most important qualities!
Reynolds: http://www.reynoldscomposites.com/OuzoPro.asp
Alpha Q: http://www.truetemper.com/performance_tubing/alphaq.html
I'm still working on other details so let me know what you think so far!
Thanks!
Dana
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vaxn8r
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 222
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Good start so far.
I would go Chorus everything over Record unless you absolutely need a Record bike to satisfy the "itch" for the best. I personally don't like all the CF bits on a CF frame. Overkill. No way would I get a ti cassette. The weight loss is essentially non-rotating at a huge price increase with loss of durability.
Same issue with carbon bars and stem. Huge price increase, negligable weight advantage, performance advantage (I wouldn't know). Again, I still think too much CF is overkill aesthetically.
As for the frameset, all 3 are engineered to ride the same, more or less. Craig said some can tell a subtle difference in the Fly. I wouldn't know. So you're left with some minor differences, some simply cosmetic. If you like lugs, what kind? If you don't maybe a Tetra would be for you. I personally don't think 8-11 oz of frame weight between them is significant, especially for the $1,000-$1,600 price difference. So it comes down to which one you like more that you can still afford.
As far as forks, I can only vouch for the Alpha Q sub 3. Not only is it the lightest but also very solid. Not flimsy at all. Descending fast and curvy is no problem for me at 180 lbs. But you can't go wrong either way. The Sub 3 is not for riders over 200lb. I think.
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gobeavs
new member
Reged: 08/22/04
Posts: 10
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After placing my order a little over three months ago, I just received my Tetra Pro last week. Nothing short of awesome. Specs: 56cm Tetra Pro(Nude),Dura-Ace 10 gruppo, Easton EC90 Equipe Pro carbon bars, Thomson Seat Post, Thomson Stem, Selle Italia SLR Carbonio saddle. I tried both the Campy Record 10 and the new Shimano Dura-Ace while going through the demo process. I love the looks of Campy but it's peformance was not as good as Shimano. I don't want to get into a debate about Campy vs. Shimano, because I have a bike that is all Campy as well. Based on having both, Shimano is better right now.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I have a Luna and recently (75 miles so far) my Fly came in. They are both great bikes. Even with the greater weight difference I'm still not Lance so I'd let the lugs vs. no lugs and price make your choice. You won't be disappointed no matter what. When I bought my Luna there was not a Fly. I spoke with Craig on the phone...he asked all about me...and recommended the Luna. I loved it from the first ride.
On my Fly Craig and me spoke again and he recommended the Easton Fork this time. He said they had not had one come in that did not meet specs on the nose. It is all one piece of carbon and I like that design.
We often said it on the old forum and it is very true. Your wheels will make more of a difference than which frame. That is a very big decision. I've had a variety of wheels and that makes a perceivable difference.
We had some very vocal folks on the old forum that loved Campy. They were in full agreement that Chorus and Record were essentially a toss up. Your decision is a solid one.
One idea is a compact crank. Campy is bringing one out and FSA is doing an out bearing model. I have one on my Kestrel and I love it. An 11/50 is the same basic ratio as a 12/53 so your high is high. Then you can get a "super" low for mountain riding easily by swapping out cassettes.
When the new FSA Compact is out I will be putting in on my Fly. I already have most everything else I need for the switch. You can see it at their site.
You will love your Calfee! 
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ChrisVT
friend
Reged: 01/08/04
Posts: 38
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I just went through the same thing. I went with the Luna, clear coat finish. I'm a Shimano guy, so I went with them. I also got a really good price on som Mavic wheels, but the Topos look SWEET. Anyway, here's where I'm headed, FWIW:
50 cm Luna Pro, clear w/ extra 1 cm of head tube
DA 10 spd shifters & rear DR
Ultegra 10 spd crank, BB, cassette (12x27), chain etc.
Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork
Thomson seat post
Fizik Aliante saddle
3T "less" stem
Kesrel EMS carbon bars (for shape and price more than materials)
Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL w/ Michelin Pro Race tires
Race wheels: HED Alps w/ Conti Comp tubulars
Speedplay pedals
Hoping to have it all together by the time the snow melts in the spring!
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BikeWNC
new member
Reged: 09/03/04
Posts: 23
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Chris, I'll be building up a Luna around Christmas or whenever it shows up and your build looks very much like the one I am considering.
62cm Luna clearcoat
Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork
Thomson seatpost
Fizik Aliante or Arione saddle
Deda Neuton bar and stem
Mix Dura-ace and Ultegra 10 sp
Look Keo pedals
Rear wheel Powertap SL hub laced to Velocity OC rim and DT spokes
Front wheel Velocity Aerohead rim with Chris King hub and DT spokes.
I'm still considering an Easton Equipe bar and appropriate stem instead of the Deda.
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ChrisVT
friend
Reged: 01/08/04
Posts: 38
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VERY similar. Deda Newton stem was actually my first choice, but my lbs didn't recommend it with the carbon bar. I think I'm going with the 3T stem, but I may end up with Ritchey. I left that to the LBS guy.
Good call on the Look pedals too. Speedplays are just what I have lying around, so I thought I'd save a few $$$ and stick with them. Used the money to pick myself up some new shoes! (Sidi Genius 4 Mesh). A pair of carbon pedals would be sweet, though.
Another thing I considered was an FSA carbon crank. Pretty good bling factor, and it may be light, but I'm not sure it's any stiffer than the new Ultegra crank.
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BikeWNC
new member
Reged: 09/03/04
Posts: 23
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My friend, who happens to be the LBS wrench, had a FSA crank and ended up switching back to a DA crank. It never shifted as smoothly as the DA.
Funny story, we were riding the Assault on Mt Mitchell last May and his shifting up front was making so much noise that people started to look at him to see what was wrong. I told the guy next to me that I hoped I didn't have a mechanical cause that was my mechanic. I've never found a set of replacement chainrings that shift as well as the originals. Maybe the newer FSA cranksets are better cause I haven't heard too many complaints lately.
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Bruce
contributor
Reged: 12/27/03
Posts: 133
Loc: North of NYC
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Dana,
You need to figure out how much you want to spend and what the design goals for the bike are. More money means less weight and more coolness factor, and better performance, not necessarily in that order, and to varying degrees. Do you want a super fast bike, or touring model, etc.
I got the Fly since I was sick and tired of heavy bikes. I ride a 60 cm, and to took everything I could do to keep the bike rock solid, and yet under 16lbs. Short guys have huge weight advantages in cycling.
Go Chorus for best price/performance. I have the Topos. HIGHLY recommended. They are really sweet and one of the lightest clinchers on the market. Get a rare earth round mini magnet at your local Radio Shack and epoxy it to one of the Topo flat spokes for the sensor. It works great and is invisible. Very cool.
Concider nude. No finish, just raw carbon. Calfee is one of the only manufactures to offer this, and he can do so because his workmanship and quality is very high. Nude will save you a few ounces if you decide weight is an issue, and the frame is cool looking nude. Paint chips, nude always looks great.
I went with the Bebop Deluxe pedals, hollow core steel axle, not Ti, which has weight limits.
You might want to check out the integrated bars that Calfee is producing. Beware that you can't attach aero bars to carbon bars for the most part.
Avoid Ti in the cassette. I got 3 seasons out of mine, not bad, but not good. I use 12-26 off season, and 11-23 in season, but go higher if you really don't like hills. Also the compact Campy crank could be an option as well.
I use the Alpha Q Sub 3. Excellent fork. No complaints.
What every you decide, it will be an awesome bike.
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Montaque
new member
Reged: 09/14/04
Posts: 24
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Hi Dana:
Another way to go which is a little different.
After waiting for what seemed to be back to back forevers, the LBS just received my 60cm Tetra Pro Cabernet fade w/ Easton SLX forks and rear rack mounts. Thanks to Craig for the recommendation on the Easton.
And speaking of decals, the only decal is a beautiful Calfee badge on the headtube -
The component list:
-Thompson seatpost-no setback-silver
-Brooks Team Pro saddle -Honey
-Thompson NEW E road stem - silver (available January)(loaner something till then)
-FSA Wing Pro handlebars
-Cinelli tape -Tan
-Chris King Headset -silver- with Chris King Spacers -silver
-Chorus Ergo with triple Front and a Long cage Rear derailuer and Chorus brakes - Alloy throughout
-Record hubs with Mavic CXP33 - silver
-Centaur cassette - modified - 12-29
-TA Zepher Triple crankset - 50,42,26 (shifts really fine)
-PHIL bottom bracket
-Speedplay frogs
-TUBUS Luna rack "a Luna riding on my Tetra Pro"
The final assembly certainly won't be as light weight as possible, but, then, neither am I.
Good luck with your selections
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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Any problems at all with them the Topolinos? Do you know anyone around 200 riding them on crappy roads? What is your opinion of the hubs? I've heard the rear bearings have a tendency to loosen and not want to adjust correctly.
Thanks. Now all I need is money. (You will be proud to know my wheel choices right now are those or Campy probably the Neutron...a little heavier but they have that famous Campy quality and bearings you love. Finally they have a Shimano wheel. Also my stop gap will probably be Campy Montreals with my King Hubs and Sampim spokes. They'll come in around 1600.)
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flythebike
captain
Reged: 08/26/04
Posts: 272
Loc: N. Virginia, USA
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Quote:
Dana wrote:
Currently I am having a hard time deciding between the Reynolds Ouzo Pro and the Alpha Q Sub 3 forks. They are both carbon forks with good comfort and ride characteristics. The Alpha Q does weigh less but Reynolds is the standard and has many positives. This is the fork, so comfort and stability are definitely the most important qualities!
Reynolds: http://www.reynoldscomposites.com/OuzoPro.asp
Alpha Q: http://www.truetemper.com/performance_tubing/alphaq.html
My last bike had the Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork. The blades are nice and beefy which is why the fork weighs a little bit more. I like the Alpha Q better because it handles quicker than the Reynolds, and it is lighter too but weight aside I like the Alpha Q better.
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Bruce
contributor
Reged: 12/27/03
Posts: 133
Loc: North of NYC
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I weigh in at 170, and have had no problems with the wheels remaining true. They are still perfectly true after riding on them since mid summer.
The hubs have loosened up, and I got two 17mm cone wrenchs to tighten up the rear one. I adjusted it once, and I need to do it some more. I hope to do that this weekend. The rear wheel is your standard bearing arrangement. Pretty simple arrangement.
The front wheel also loosened up and is a completly different beast than any other hub I have ever seen. Basically, you remove the front hub by putting in two 5mm allen wrenches in where the quick release skewer goes, and unscrewing them. Once you do that, you find a long Al axle connecting each one, and two small sealed bearings that go on the outside of the hub, with the axle going through the center. Not sure you can picture how this works, but it is an innovative design.
So the front hub has no way to adjust the play. The problem of a loosening hub stems from the basic design of wedging these sealed bearing into the plastic hub body. If that fit becomes loose, the the hub seems loose. But because the bearing are sealed, the bearings are not loose, just what they fit into. My plan is to put some tape around the bearings and push them into the hub body. I think this will eliminate the looseness. I'll let you know how it goes.
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gobeavs
new member
Reged: 08/22/04
Posts: 10
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Have you considered the Easton forks. When I spoke with Craig that is what he recommended for my Tetra Pro. I am on day three with the new bike and loving it. I posted a picture in the photo gallery yesterday but it is still pending approval. The title is, "My New Mistress."
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JamesC
new member
Reged: 12/24/03
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Dana wrote:
After some measurements and fittings, I even contacted Craig Calfee and confirmed the right size for me (and luckily, no custom is required!)
If you have time to reply - what were your considerations for fitting and what was it that Craig wanted to know? Did he explain anything about how the frame should fit for you, any measurements that he specifically asked about? I am very curious about what the designer thinks about fitting his own design. (and wouldn't that make a nice whitepaper on his web site?)
Thanks!
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DGauthier
new member
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 21
Loc: Los Angeles, CA
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Quote:
Bruce wrote:
My plan is to put some tape around the bearings and push them into the hub body. I think this will eliminate the looseness. I'll let you know how it goes.
Your front hub construction sounds similar to the front hub on my Mavic Cosmos wheelset. In my hub, the cartridge bearings are pressed into the hub body, and the axle runs through the center of the bearings. The axle diameter is slightly smaller than the inner race diameter of the bearings, and this intentionally loose fit allows the axle freely rotate within the inner race, without turning the inner race itself.
This is a safety feature. Cartridge bearings can and do rust solid if water gets in them. The fact that the axle freely rotates inside the bearings means that the front hub will not lock up if the bearings seize during a ride. When the bearings seize, the axle will just spin, metal-on-metal, against the inner race.
My rear hub has no such feature, probably because rear wheel lockup is not a safety concern. The rear axle cannot turn without turning the bearings themselves.
If I understand your description correctly, your front hub sounds similar but different: it sounds like your hub has an intentionally loose fit between the hub body and the outer bearing races, rather than the axle and the inner bearing race.
Please ensure sure you know what you're doing before you modify your hubs, Bruce. You don't want to eliminate a deliberately designed loose fit in your front hub. It may be the only thing that will keep you from going over the bars should your bearings decide to seize.
I can't imagine your front hub is designed to be adjusted using a roll of tape. There's probably an entirely different way of adjusting your front hub that you're not aware of.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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Bruce,
I would listen to DG. I would contact Topolino and ask how to adjust them. That design is similar to my King Hub. They are adjustable.
Thanks for the information!
Good luck.
Lon
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Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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Thanks to everyone for the comments so far.
First, a little more about me. I'm 5'7" with a riding weight of 150 (but I'm 165 right now  ). So I'm not a stomper/clydesdale. Craig has judged my fit to be a 52 with no custom required. This was based on fitting data I had sent to him from a little trip...
I was visiting a friend in Wisconsin and there were many good bike shops to I took advantage of the opportunity and had 2 fittings.
The first was a Serotta fitting and I felt good about the results. After the fitting was when he measured the bikes and let me ride his Serotta which he was interested in selling so he could upgrade to the latest model, as well as a Roubaix. He spent a lot of time with the fitting, measuring me as well as just looking at me ride the sizing
cycle while making small adjustments so I looked the way he wanted on the bike. Being able to ride a bike immediately after the fitting did make me feel confident in the results even though it was only a few miles.
The other was a bikefitting.com system. He was very precise in measuring me and then plugging the information into the computer. He was also very nice but there was much less time spent looking at me ride and making adjustments. Maybe the computer makes it all take a lot less time but when you are paying for a fitting, it is nice to be fretted over a little.
I don't know exactly what pieces of data were most important to Craig but he did comment "Thanks for your very complete fitting data. It makes my job easier!" So I'm sure it was more than actually needed.
I am 42 y.o. and I usually ride 100-150 miles / week. This consists of a group ride of 40-50 miles with me on my 1978 Gitane and a slower group ride of 25-35 miles on my 1987 Counterpoint Opus III with my 11 y.o. son. I try to get in a couple of rides each week to keep the mileage up. I rode 45 miles on my own Monday since the group rides this weekend were only 25 and 30 miles (and my son bailed to hang out with a friend of his but that is another story).
My 1978 Gitane is steel, lugged, has had its components replaced periodically along with the wheels. It did weigh 32.5 lbs until last week when I broke the kickstand and took that as a sign to drop a little weight so I also removed my touring rack, aerobars, 3rd bottle cage (I use a M.U.L.E. now) and my "cheater" brake levers. Now it is 29 lbs (10% weight reduction!) so the riding seemed pretty easy this weekend (or was it just the short distances?) At some point I repainted the battered frame with brown rust-o-leum (stripped old paint, whole nine yards) and I will never do that process myself again! But the bike does still look good so I didn't do too bad a job...
Now that you know a little more about me, you might be less surprised to hear that I like the lugged look and I favor the Luna and Dragonfly over the Tetra (not that I couldn't adapt, but ...)
I think the compact crank 50/34 with a 12-25 cassette is a good idea. I do need the mix of lower gears, returning to my house involves 600 ft of ascent in 4 climbs over the last 4 miles. The top of the 3rd climb gains 50 feet over 225 feet for a 22% grade. I knew it must be tough before I got out the GPS to check because they switched from asphalt to concrete when they were paving it!
I suppose this is my "dream bike" but I do dream of comfort and durability more than just spending $$$. As far as Chorus vs. Record, I had originally assumed that I would be getting Record but I became a little concerned about the drivetrain durability of Record (how many miles before replacement). At 100 miles/week with 6 months of riding, that would be 2500 miles which I heard might be the lifetime of the Record where the Chorus might last 3 times as long. At this point, I may at least get a Chorus cassette so it will be all steel.
Bruce, my design goals for this bike are to be fast, comfortable and stable. No plans to "race" or to ride a bike that is uncomfortable in order to go a little faster. I want to have fun, enjoy myself and have an easier time keeping up with everyone on the group rides. If I end up overachieving, that is fine. I'll just be more inclined to ride the 5-10 miles to the start of the ride. I won't do any loaded touring on this bike, at least not while it is so shiny and new. I'll just have to put the rack back on my Gitane or take the Counterpoint if I can talk someone into going along. I'll also use the Gitane on any rainy rides and on the trainer so the new bike will have a pretty easy life.
I also use Bebop pedals so you must be a kindred spirit of some kind! Of course, I am one of those smaller guys so my little bike will weigh even less. 
As far as paint, I was considering a fade because I like color and it does allow the fiber to show. Maybe a green fade with purple lugs?
Thanks to everyone on the fork advice. I think I can't really go wrong and I still don't have a strong preference so I may just let Craig help me pick the one that will work the best with my size and style.
I am also considering a Phil Woods bottom bracket and Wipperman chain.
Thanks,
Dana
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I like the lugs also! I don't think you are alone there. The "smooth" look of the Tetra is really because when it was originally designed that was the best way to join the tubes. Now you have a choice.
I'd get a Luna with your riding preferences. I love my Luna and unless money was not an issue I think you money is better spent on upgrading your wheels etc. than say getting a Fly. I own both and they are remarkable in being so much alike. That is Craig's goal. Every bike rides, handles and responds the same...the differrence is weight primarily.
Good luck.
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Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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The Dragonfly also has a 25 year warranty as opposed to the 10 year but I'm not sure home much difference that makes.
My LBS also told me that the Dragonfly is better materials and more time is spent working on it so it can have a better ride.
It is also mentioned that the Dragonfly is stiffer but in a good way because it is also more comfortable.
Any of this true or noticeable or just hype?
I'd probably be willing to buy the Dragonfly if it is a more comfortable/stable/improved frame but not just to shave off 0.75 lbs.
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Montaque
new member
Reged: 09/14/04
Posts: 24
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Hi Dana:
I just took delivery of my first Tetra Pro this afternoon (1539hrs PDT)
Sacramento had great riding weather for my first ride - ON MY TETRA PRO - which was to the foothill and about 47 miles.
Before the ride my greatest concern was the EASTON SLX fork - I did not know much about them and the only search on the web produced results on the SL, which were less than favorable. My weight was 217.2 for this ride and I am 6' 3".
Well, my Tetra Pro is amazing - climbs, downhills, fast 40 +mph downhills, straight and level, fast rollers. I did not notice the EASTON fork - I reveled in the total Calfee performance.
My LBS in Sacramento, which has been involved in The Bicycle Business for many years, fit and balanced my ride. Whether it is a LUNA - TETRA PRO or D'FLY - and I like the 25 year warranty on the Tetra Pro - it BOILS down to components that work together (see my first posting for my list) and a BALANCED ride - any bike frame can be amazing - albeit not as super amazing as a Calfee - if it is truly YOUR BIKE and it fits YOU and is balanced for YOU -
Bottom line: in that situation you don't notice the EASTON; or, for that matter, THE WHEEL; it is just a part of the total experience.
And Yes, this afternoon I did use my 29x26 and it shifted like a dream - even with the chainwrap of 41 and a 24 tooth spread in the front. (Record Triple Front and Chorus triple long cage rear)(NO carbon) (and NO ShimaNO).
Once you make your decision on which Calfee frame, you will have some time to MULL over the components. As it turns out, I made a few changes that I would otherwise not have on a shorter time frame.
Have fun
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BikeWNC
new member
Reged: 09/03/04
Posts: 23
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Dana, I had the to make the same decision, though this being a second road bike the Dragonfly really wasn't on the table. So it came down to the Tetra or the Luna. Having read and been told that the rides of these two frames are very similar, the differences came down to weight, appearance and warranty. I'm not a slave to fashion so to a great degree how a frame looks does't matter to me. The quarter pound of weight savings also isn't a big deal. I'm not a weight-weenie and a well built Luna can still be pretty light. I could apply the savings from buying the Luna over the Tetra to put better and lighter components on the bike.
As for warranty, well I'm 47yo. I wonder what kind of bike I will want when I'm 72? 10 years is plenty for me at this time. I think my needs so far as frame sizing will start to change in the next decade.
Lastly, I think carbonfiber technology will change as time moves along. What is state of the art today will be eclipsed by new materials and techniques. Of course that shouldn't prevent you from buying what you want today. Just realize that the Lunas of tomorrow will be more like the Flys of today and you pay a lot to have the current best.
My personal recommendation is to get the Luna and ride the cr&p out of it over a couple of years. Then decide if a Fly is needed and how it should be tweaked to fit.
Good luck. Either way you can't go wrong.
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Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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Here is what I planning:
Calfee Luna 52 with 1.5cm headtube extension, 1" headtube
Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork
ITM K-Sword handlebars with integrated stem
Campy Chorus
CT cranks 50/34 with 12-25 cassette
Carbon seatpost
Wipperman chain
Topolino wheels
Continental 25mm tires & tubes
$100 saddle of some type
Bebop stainless pedals
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice!
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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Excellent choices that show thoughtful and practical decisions... PLUS YOU WILL BE SMOKIN' 
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Bruce
contributor
Reged: 12/27/03
Posts: 133
Loc: North of NYC
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Dana,
Good choices. I think you got max performance with minimal price. Wheels are your biggest area where you can gain speed, and you have some of the lightest clinchers going. The carbon spokes will also smooth the ride out.
Be prepared to get on this bike and go WOW!
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Bruce
contributor
Reged: 12/27/03
Posts: 133
Loc: North of NYC
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DGauthier,
Your analysis is correct. One race is actually more stuck on the axle than the other, which comes off easily. I was planning on putting the tape between races and the hub body, not between the races and the axle. I tried some thin teflon tape, but it does not stick well DUH! On to the next experiment.
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Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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I'm probably going to make a handlebar change. I've been convinced that since this is a new bike that I will have a difficult time fitting for K-Sword integrated.
So the plan will be to get the Easton EC90 Equipe until I can figure out the stem that makes the best ride for me.
Then, if I really want to change to an ergonomic bar (I have numbness issues from working on the computer and my rehabbed shattered left elbow doesn't help) then I will be able to send the perfectly fitted bar in to Calfee and get that custom barstem.
As an aside, has anyone seen this interesting option for your extra tubes?
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ChrisVT
friend
Reged: 01/08/04
Posts: 38
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I love your setup, but I'm curious about your choice of a carbon seat post. I've never tried one, but I hear that they don't affect comfort much and have a tendency to slip. Perhaps you're trying to save weight?
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I think I'll stick with my seat bag. I'd hate to see it once it rained. Another reason is that rotating weight is worth double. So if it is a 75 gram tube in the bag it is worth 150 grams rotating on the hub. The upside is since it is inside weight and not the outside of the wheel that is better.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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We had a variety of discussions on this topic. I for one feel a difference on one. Others say they don't. It appears to be up to the individual what their perception is. That is all I want under me. I guess a good way to look at it is some folks ride aluminum bikes and wonder what all the fuss is about a buzzy or rougher ride and others can hardly take aluminum at all. It is very individual. My experience is based on riding the same bike with and without a carbon post. However my butt is sensitive enough to know when my rear bearing have become loose. Weight really shouldn't be the reason for the choice. The super light weight ones would have to be replaced to often for me.
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Dana
new member
Reged: 09/28/04
Posts: 18
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Yes, I was doing the carbon seat post for comfort/feeling not for weight. Everyone cannot always tell a difference with carbon, but the seat post is the most noticeable place for most.
As far as the extra tube on your hub, I had never seen that before and so it just struck me as wrong. So I was just curious if anyone had actually tried it before.
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flythebike
captain
Reged: 08/26/04
Posts: 272
Loc: N. Virginia, USA
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I like my record carbon post fine. Like others, if I don't tighten it up enough, then it slips. Otherwise, it is fine. I don't really notice a difference from the Dean Titanium post I had on my other bike. I like the clamp/adjustment on this post better than any other I've had. It is easy to set the angle and keep it when adjusting fore/aft.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I never had a Ti post but I'd guess it would be similar as you say. My post to compare was aluminum.
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flythebike
captain
Reged: 08/26/04
Posts: 272
Loc: N. Virginia, USA
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Re: Carbon Seatpost
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Re: Designing my new Calfee
Re: Designing my new Calfee
Final version