nKhona
new member
Reged: 12/07/05
Posts: 5
Loc: Dallas, TX
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First a bit of background...I recently bought a 56cm Tetra Pro frame, a 1997 model I think, and with it came a Dura-Ace BB (70x109). I also bought a Shimano Ultegra group to build the bike out.
So the problem I am having is installing the FC-6500 crankset (172.5 39/53), when I tighten the crank bolt the inner chainring of the crankset will contact the chainstay. Do I need a spacer? wider BB? different crankset?
If you are a visual person here are some pics of the crankset on the bike:
Crankset close to chainstay
BB Splines
Any help is appreciated!!
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Dan
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I'd give Dean at Calfee a call. Ususally late in the day EST is a good time to catch him.
Isn't your new bottom bracket a 108 and now a little shorter?
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nKhona
new member
Reged: 12/07/05
Posts: 5
Loc: Dallas, TX
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Since I got the frame with the Dura-Ace BB I did not order a new BB. So I am trying to put the Ultegra Crankset on a Dura-Ace BB. 
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Dan
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dfcas
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 136
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If you have room on the non drive side to move the crank arm closer to the chainstay,you can put a spacer on the drive side.
If your LBS doesn't have any,I'll put some in the mail to you.I -think- I have 1mm and 2 mm's.
dan
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no signature
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Dave_Thompson
prophet
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 714
Loc: Spokane, Washington
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All of the Calfees that my wife and I have have owned that had Italian bottom bracket sizing (3) required a 1~2MM spacer installed underneath the drive-side bottom bracket cup. This enable the inner chainring to clear the chainstay. This feature seems to be peculiar only to those Calfees that have Italian bottom bracket sizing.
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Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
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nKhona
new member
Reged: 12/07/05
Posts: 5
Loc: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
If your LBS doesn't have any,I'll put some in the mail to you.I -think- I have 1mm and 2 mm's.
Sent you a PM...Tried 3 LBSs and no luck so far.
Thanks!!
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Dan
Edited by nKhona (12/09/05 05:47 AM)
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dfcas
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 136
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They are in the mail
dan
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NateM
new member
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 16
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I have a 97 Tetra and when using a 9sp DA crank I used a 112.5mm XTR spindle in a Italian DA BB.I still had to use a 1mm spacer to get clearnace.I switched to a carbon FSA crank and was able to remove the spacer.I now use the mega exo BB with FSA compact and there is plenty of room.Dave Thompson might know if the spacer will work with a 109.6 spindle?
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dfcas
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 136
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I sent you a PM.
dan
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nKhona
new member
Reged: 12/07/05
Posts: 5
Loc: Dallas, TX
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Many thanks to dfcas (Dan), as he sent me a few spacers and after a bit of work I got them to fit!
At first the spacers would not fit over my BB cup threads. Since my BB is Italian threaded it's O.D. is 36mm and the spacers I.D. was 35mm. So after reading a few more post on other forums I took a half-round file to the inside of the spacers to widen the I.D. to 36mm. Worked like a charm.
I had played around with the idea of making a cut in the spacer so that I could spread it to fit, but filing the spacer worked.
I used a single 2mm spacer and it was just enough to keep the chain ring from rubbing.
Once again "Thank You" to dfcas!
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Dan
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dfcas
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 136
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hey Dan
I'm glad it solved the problem.now let us know what you think of the frame-most people are stunned.
dan
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nKhona
new member
Reged: 12/07/05
Posts: 5
Loc: Dallas, TX
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I took a quick spin on it after getting the cranks on it...  Two things were apparent to me with in 30 seconds.
1) I *know* I am going to fall in love with this bike...even without any wrap on the bars the road felt smooth but the bike still gave great feedback.
2) I am officially out of shape and need to start up my cycling routine again. Just 2 months off and I am feeling the effects of not riding.
I'll post more once I get a chance to go on a longer ride.
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Dan
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Allan
journeyman
Reged: 05/04/04
Posts: 198
Loc: Bds,W I
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Just a short query here about the spacer on the BB issue, why do you need to fit it in the first place???. Why not just screw in the right cup till its in the correct place necessary to give the chainring clearance leaving the 2 or so mms required between the cup and BB shell face and then tighten the left side up against it to the correct specified torque.
Tightening the RH cups lip against the BB shell face is a redundant issue since the torque setting of the two cups pressing against each other is what keeps the unit from backing off and becoming slack.
You can then fit in a simple 'O'ring of the correct size into the space to hide the look of the threads showing between the RH shell end and the RH cup.
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Its time to ride.
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Dave_Thompson
prophet
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 714
Loc: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
Allan wrote:
Just a short query here about the spacer on the BB issue, why do you need to fit it in the first place???. Why not just screw in the right cup till its in the correct place necessary to give the chainring clearance leaving the 2 or so mms required between the cup and BB shell face and then tighten the left side up against it to the correct specified torque.
Tightening the RH cups lip against the BB shell face is a redundant issue since the torque setting of the two cups pressing against each other is what keeps the unit from backing off and becoming slack.
You can then fit in a simple 'O'ring of the correct size into the space to hide the look of the threads showing between the RH shell end and the RH cup.
With Shimano bottom brackets (I'm not familiar with Campy) The right (drive side)cup *has* to be torqued to the proper specs against the BB face, as per Shimano specs. There is no lateral adjustment built into the installation, hence the need for a spacer. If you left the right cup 'dangling' the 2mm as you suggest, the 10mm or so of remaining BB threads in the BB shell wouldn't be enough to prevent problems with the bottom bracket.
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Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
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Allan
journeyman
Reged: 05/04/04
Posts: 198
Loc: Bds,W I
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Sorry there Dave my mind was definately in Campy mode when i wrote that, as you mentioned this would not work for the shimaNO or other BBs that have a plastic left side cup since those BBs depend on the tightened RH side cup to bear the loads. However it will work for the Campy ones and the outboard ones, as well as all the ones with aluminum cups on both the left and right sides.
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Its time to ride.
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Dave_Thompson
prophet
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 714
Loc: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
Allan wrote:
Sorry there Dave my mind was definately in Campy mode when i wrote that, as you mentioned this would not work for the shimaNO or other BBs that have a plastic left side cup since those BBs depend on the tightened RH side cup to bear the loads. However it will work for the Campy ones and the outboard ones, as well as all the ones with aluminum cups on both the left and right sides.
Nope, with *any* Shimano BB regardless of what the left side cup is made of. The driveside cup is fixed and must me torqued against the bottom bracket shell (with or without a spacer)as the left side cup also gets torqued against the bottom bracket shell. If the Drive side cup is *not* tightened against the shell, it is in effect 'floating' and will come loose. On Dura Ace double BB's, the left side cup is tightened until the BB spindle doesn't turn freely, then it is loosened 1/16 to 1/8 turn and the lock ring is tightened and torqued. Your suggestion will only work on bottom brackets that use two adjustable cups such as Phil Wood,
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Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
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Allan
journeyman
Reged: 05/04/04
Posts: 198
Loc: Bds,W I
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I'm speaking for BBs that use the design which in effect have the outer cups pressing against the centre distance collar to create the tightening torque.
Ones like Campys present generation of BBs, back to the older models that didnt carry a lip on the RH side cup, aka C-Record versions.
In these BBs the torque setting of 51 Ft/lbs is what keeps it secure in the shell and it can be moved from left to right in the BB to fine tune the drive line.
Granted the newer Campy ones now have a RH cup lip, but ive removed this many times in a lathe to allow for a better drive line angle or to get the arms even by the chainstays.
A similiar thing can be said for the FSA Mega-Exo outboard units that are made for a 68/70 wide BB shell. On a 68mm shell you use the supplied O ring on the left side to hide the LH cups exposed threads, but you can also move the bearings those 2mms left or right in the shell too if need be and then torque them against each other.
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Its time to ride.
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