davidlemon
friend
Reged: 09/21/06
Posts: 37
Loc: sacramento, ca
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I'd like to get the thoughts of Calfee owners past and present on the concept of the company's decals on its frames. I'm days away from finalizing an order for a Dragonfly Pro, nude finish. I'll most likely have this frame for the rest of my days on earth, so I'm losing sleep over which decals I should include and/or omit on the frame. Part of me wants to just let them go ahead with the standard decal set-up. Then there's another part of me that thinks a bit more of a minimalist approach would be better.
To get more specific, I think it's a bit of an overkill to have the Calfee logo on the seat stays and the fork blades. This is where I'm most on the fence. What I'll most certainly axe, though, is the "Tour de France Proven" from the seat tube, and the patent numbers.
Your thoughts are most appreciated. And I realize I'll get a lot of "to each his/her own" type responses, but it'd be nice to get an idea as to how current/past owners have approached this. Many thanks. David
Edited by davidlemon (10/04/06 02:01 PM)
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cccyclist
journeyman
Reged: 09/27/05
Posts: 80
Loc: Central California
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I only have the decals on the head tube, down tube and top tube. I like my bikes with a very clean look.
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Dave_Thompson
prophet
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 717
Loc: Spokane, Washington
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I would opt for 'stealth' (dark red) decals for the head tube badge and on the down tubes and top tube only, no others.
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Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
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davidlemon
friend
Reged: 09/21/06
Posts: 37
Loc: sacramento, ca
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Thanks to Dave Thompson & cccyclist for replies so far. Any more thoughts on the placement of decals? the stealth look?
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dfcas
contributor
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 138
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Mine only has a few decals on it-As you know,the order form has a section to choose each decal seperately.I'd go dark decals,and only a few.None on the fork or seatstays.
dan
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no signature
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superunleaded
captain
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 223
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Quote:
Dave_Thompson wrote:
I would opt for 'stealth' (dark red) decals for the head tube badge and on the down tubes and top tube only, no others.
+1 with Dave's choice.
-gas
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***Regular Unleaded - 4.99
***Special Unleaded - 7.99
***Superunleaded - Arm & a Leg
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tall_jason
new member
Reged: 08/15/06
Posts: 13
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The only decal that I didn't put on my Dragonfly was the seat tube decal. After meeting Craig, I'm proud to ride his bikes and display his name.
I don't like the way that the "Dragonfly" decal looks on the top tube though. The blue and white sort of overlap and look sloppy. Maybe it's really cool and my brain just doesn't get it.
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64cm Dragonfly custom geometry
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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This is one thing I LOVE about Calfee Nude frames; You can add/remove decals to your heart's content.
I have all the decals except the top tube and am about this close to removing the seat tube since its slowly been rubbing off anyway.
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Insightdriver
captain
Reged: 03/07/04
Posts: 472
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I went with custom decals, so I have Calfee Design in white on both sides of my downtube. Calfee on the head tube, my name on both sides of the top tube and the Calfee logo on both sides of the fork.
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RDP
captain
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 243
Loc: Kansas
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Did you get the separate decals from Calfee? Was there an additional charge for that?
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It is about the bike.....BikeFanClub Forums
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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Yes, you can order decal sets from Calfee directly. There is a charge for it but I think it's like less than 20 bucks.
They dont sell the decals individually (or at least they didn't when I bought a set last year) so you get a packet with all the standard decals.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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The dark decals are not designed for a nude frame. So they will not be durable on it. The standard white decals have two kinds...one for nude and one for bikes with a finish. This I found out as I discussed decals with Dean who was there for years and Craig. (Dean is no longer there.)
Acetone that can be purchased at the hardware store will remove any decal on a nude frame in a flash. It is recommended by Calfee. The reason I found is that for unknown factors my top tube decal kind of desolved. Nothing else would completely clean the carbon to the extent that a replacement decal would adhere properly. (As with all things in life I found this out the hard way.) I spoke with Craig and Dean on this as well.
You could always get them all and then remove them as you decide looking at the bike. If you don't like a lot don't order it that way. My replacment decals were provided free so I imagine they would send you a decal you left off to add on if you change your mind.
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Darby
sage
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
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I didn't see anyone saying that they have decals on their forks. However, most Calfees that I have seen have decals on the forks. Anyone not have decals on their forks?
I am replacing my forks and have to decide if I want decals. I don't like the decals running down the blade, but have to decide on the other decals. My old forks only had the Calfee logo.
There is a remote possibility that I may sell the forks at some point in the future. So not having decals might it easier to sell them.
Bruce
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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I don't think a fork without a decal will be easier to sell but harder. Nobody will know what it is. When Craig refinishes the forks he puts his decals on them. I sold one without any trouble at all...Calfee has a good name even if we know they are not his forks.
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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I totally agree, a local bike shop (which isn't really affiliated with Calfee) sells Calfee branded Alpha Q forks. I asked someone about it and I was told that they sell them to Calfee and non-Calfee riders alike.
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Darby
sage
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
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Thanks guy.
I think I will just let Calfee give the fork the full treatment, with the possible exception of the blade decals. I hadn't thought about Calfee's strict specifications actually increasing the value of the forks.
Bruce
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davidlemon
friend
Reged: 09/21/06
Posts: 37
Loc: sacramento, ca
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Thanks to all for the input. Seems as though I'll be in a good position to add & remove decals to my liking, as I'm going with the nude finish, making the removal process much easier. Also, I've confirmed Lon's statement that the darker, "stealth" decals aren't designed to adhere to the nude finish quite as well as the standard decals. Got about six weeks or so to go before I have my D-Fly... look forward to posting pics of the sub-13 lb. beauty once it's built. Thanks again!
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skuke
captain
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Umlungu wrote:
I have all the decals except the top tube and am about this close to removing the seat tube since its slowly been rubbing off anyway.
Umlungu and everyone else,
Do you, by chance, use Banana Boat sun block?
A friend of mine does, as do I, but due to his very fair complexion, he slathers it on. The decals on his top and seat tube all "melt" and peel off within a few years. It is the same with several bikes he owns.
I'm trying to determine if there is a chemical in Banana Boat, all sun blocks, or another reason his decals peel. I know he doesn't clamp on the decal area when wrenching but his leg does get close to the top tube decal when standing at lights etc. ...the decals on both sides of the TT melt.
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Skuke
95 Carbonframes Tetra Pro
92 Bridgestone MB-1
90 Moser 51.151
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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wow, thats pretty interesting. Good info and theory.
I have a fair complexion and use sunscreen quite a bit. I have had great success with bullfrog spray-on no-rub sunscreen. It lasts all day, is sweat-proof & water-proof and doesn't require my hands to touch it at all.
I haven't noticed any correlation between the sunscreen and the decals, though there might be something to that. The decal on the seat tube was melting away simply because this is where my saris bones rack grips the bike and, over time, the jostling of the bike in the rack has worn away the edge. I pulled the trigger and took the whole decal off with acetone (craigs recommended remover) last Thurs night after looking at the bike and think about this discussion.
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Darby
sage
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
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Quote:
Umlungu wrote:
wow, thats pretty interesting. Good info and theory.
I have a fair complexion and use sunscreen quite a bit. I have had great success with bullfrog spray-on no-rub sunscreen. It lasts all day, is sweat-proof & water-proof and doesn't require my hands to touch it at all.
Umlungu, I am assuming that your bike has a nude finish.
If I ever have to send my bike back to Calfee, I will probably strip the paint off and leave it nude. I had heard that the nude finish is more rugged and looks new longer than paint. However, I have also heard that the sun will dry out the finish and that sunblock or Armor All is required as treatment
My question. If one neglects to treat the finish often enough, can sun damage to the frame be reversible?
Bruce
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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Quote:
Darby wrote:
Umlungu, I am assuming that your bike has a nude finish.
If I ever have to send my bike back to Calfee, I will probably strip the paint off and leave it nude. I had heard that the nude finish is more rugged and looks new longer than paint. However, I have also heard that the sun will dry out the finish and that sunblock or Armor All is required as treatment
My question. If one neglects to treat the finish often enough, can sun damage to the frame be reversible?
Bruce
My Luna is nude (woowoo). I must say that I have yet to see a nude carbon bike from anyone but Calfee. It look ssoooo stealthy and cool, the way the sunlight shimmers off the fibers gives it a look that just can't be duplicated with paint. My best friend rides a Tetra with a red to translucent red fade paint job and that is completely stunning; but I really dig the uniquess of the nude finish.
I would say its more rugged from the point of view that clear coating on carbon in general can pit pretty badly when rocks pop up and hit the frame (I dont know how true this is with Calfee paint jobs). Since I ride alot of rural country type roads here in Texas (fewer cars), the nude finish appeals to me even more. It does require more upkeep as you said in the way of sublock, but if you are into bike like I am then the extra step of protecting the frame each time you wash the bike is no hassle at all. Plus the protectant makes the bike look even better. I hardly want to even get it wet once it's done.
On the subject of protectant, for me (and most other nudists) 303 is the only option. It's recommended by Craig and is hands down the product to use.
UV damage is not reversible. The ultra violet light breaks down the bonds of the fibers slowly compromising the integrity of the frame. Of course I'm no expert so you might give Craig or the folks at 303 a call. Better yet, check out this article on the 303 website.
While the effects of UV radiation might not be reversible, the fact that Calfee frames can be repaired makes yet another strong case for the greatness of the Calfee design. So if over the years a frame is neglected and only the top tube has been damaged, then just that section of the frame need be rebuilt.
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davidlemon
friend
Reged: 09/21/06
Posts: 37
Loc: sacramento, ca
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thanks for all the input. my dragonfly arrived earlier this week. only four week's time! it's absolutely stunning, but i must say i'm not that thrilled with the decals.
in particular, the two nautilus' on the fork shoulder blades show wrinkles in the decals due to the curvature of the shoulder. and the letter "a" in the word "made" from the phrase "made in california" literally wiped away as i rubbed my thumb across it. bummer. so, to remedy that, i'll be heading out today to get some acetone to take the entire decal off. i'm hoping the acetone has no affect on the nude carbon.
in general, the decals on the nude finish appear as though they can just flake away, which is unfortunate because this really detracts from the aesthetic appeal of the frame. that said, i presume any type of decal on nude carbon would look this way, and would bet they'd look a lot better beneath the gloss finish. i decided to go with the standard decals, rather than stealth, as i'm told by calfee reps that the stealth decals are not particularly suitable for adhering to nude carbon.
anyone have any experience removing their own decals with acetone? any advice?
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Darby
sage
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
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Quote:
davidlemon wrote:
anyone have any experience removing their own decals with acetone? any advice?
I would call Craig Calfee first. He would probably have a solution on what type of chemicals to use; and it would give him feedback on his quality control.
Bruce
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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The decals should not come off that easily. I have a Nude Fly. It could be that whoever applied them picked up the wrong ones. They look the same except the nude version are I believe green on the back.
Acetone takes them right off. I got mine in the hardware store. There really isn't much to know except to wear gloves.
I'd call Craig and get his feedback anyhow. I never had a problem with any but the top tube. I applied a new one from a fresh batch of decals and that is holding up fine.
Good luck.
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davidlemon
friend
Reged: 09/21/06
Posts: 37
Loc: sacramento, ca
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Quote:
Lon wrote:
It could be that whoever applied them picked up the wrong ones. They look the same except the nude version are I believe green on the back.
Interesting, Lon. When you have a moment, will you elaborate more on these different decal versions? I'd like to be able to confirm that I did indeed get the correct version of the standard decals. Thanks.
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Umlungu
contributor
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 183
Loc: Plano, TX
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I called Craig last year and he recommended acetone to take the decals off nude frames. It will not harm or compromise the frame at all. Works great!
I also agree that it sounds like you might have gotten the wrong decals. They should not just flake off at all, in fact it would take some pretty serious rubbing to remove them.
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Lon
sage
Reged: 12/20/03
Posts: 595
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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There is no way to tell if they are the correct ones or not once they are on the bike.
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