SevenOdonata
new member
Reged: 01/29/04
Posts: 19
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Hi folks! Just came across this forum and wanted to drop a quick note. As indicated I have a Ti Odonata, year 2000. Nothing really special about the components, Seven seatpost and fork, Campy 10 speed, Speedplay pedals, Deda stem and bar etc.
The bike replaced my 1996 Merlin Road. Overall, the bike is fantastic. Stiff, comfortable and a much better fit. Even more so after a 2 hour fitting I recently had to address a sore knee after long rides.
My website has some pics and more detail: http://home.earthlink.net/~etsuji325/seven.html
Enjoy!
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Jeff_Nichols
journeyman
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 73
Loc: San Jose
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That is an extremely good looking bike in my opinion. I personally prefer the aesthetics of the Rolf setup but both are nice. Pretty subdued without being totally bland - perfect... Can you give any feedback on the Wound Up fork as compared to other carbon forks?
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Kahuna
Forum Admin
Reged: 12/11/03
Posts: 162
Loc: Maui, Hawaii
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Seven Odonata,
That's a great bike. Thanks for posting it in our image gallery as well. If you wouldn't mind, do you think you could link to this forum website from your page? The more outside links we get, the more popular this site will become.
As we say in Hawaii, mahalo (thank you)! 
-K.
Edited by Kahuna (01/29/04 09:27 PM)
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SevenOdonata
new member
Reged: 01/29/04
Posts: 19
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I can certainly throw up a link onto my website. I haven't been good about updating it recently, but this gives me an excuse.
Thanks!
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SevenOdonata
new member
Reged: 01/29/04
Posts: 19
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Well, I only have the Merlin Road (1996) that has the Time Vectran fork I believe. The other big difference is the Merlin has a 1" headtube, the Seven 1 1/8" so it's hard to say how much each factor contributes to the ride. What I can say is the front end is MUCH stiffer and responsive. I generally race crits, and diving into corners or hard front braking is a noticeable difference between the two bikes (using the same wheels/tires). Also, I know the Wound-Up comes in several versions, I have the "all-carbon" version. It has an aluminum tube base that is wrapped with filament wound carbon fiber.
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Jeff_Nichols
journeyman
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 73
Loc: San Jose
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting a Wound Up Carbon Cross fork on my new bike and am curious about how the steerer tube is cut given the fact that there's an aluminum tube inside. I was reading the "manual" for the Reynolds Ouzo Pro and they say to cut it with a hacksaw blade designed for composites ("no teeth"). This makes some sense as you don't want big chunks of the carbon coming off with a rough tooth blade. What happens with the Wound Up when you get past the carbon and have to get through the Aluminum? I'm planning on building it up myself but the fork is being purchased through the frame builder - hopefully there will be some install instructions from Wound Up. If you have any knowledge of this issue, I'd appreciate it.
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SevenOdonata
new member
Reged: 01/29/04
Posts: 19
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You pose an interesting question since I was thinking of dumping the Campy headset (for a Chris King), flipping the stem around and dropping spacers. I wanted to slightly increase the handlebar height (2-3mm) based on a fitting I had with a coach over the fall. That entails cutting the steerer tube, the same issue you have.
Like you, I also found out that a "toothless blade" made for carbon fiber should be used. I have no idea how it would work on the Al tube though and never did any additional research. I don't know if the Cross fork is constructed any differently from the road fork though. Something to check on. I will say the cut that was made turned out to be relatively smooth, no jagged edges, but has "cut" marks. Hard to explain, but if you were to freehand cut a 2x4, you would get ridges along the cut as the blade angle changes ever so slightly from 90 degrees. That's what I see, along with traces of blue paint from the hacksaw blade. Also, fyi, the carbon tube wall was much thicker that I would have thought given the Al tube reinforcement. Interesting.
I am sure someone at Seven would be able to help, have you contacted them? If you do, I would love to hear what they recommend. I don't know if I'll actually make the changes in the near future, but it would be good to know exactly what to do (or not do do). In the end, I may just take it back to the shop and have them do it.
Good luck!
Edited by SevenOdonata (01/30/04 06:34 PM)
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Jeff_Nichols
journeyman
Reged: 12/18/03
Posts: 73
Loc: San Jose
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So you're saying that you already have cut your wound up fork with a carbon steerer? I'm not clear on whether the aluminum inner sleeve extends far enough up the steerer so that it would be cut when shortening the steerer for stem height or if it's only on the bottom portion of the steerer (i.e. it stops somewhere inside the head tube of the bike).
I know the fork blades are different on the road vs. cross forks but i'm pretty sure the general construction method is very similar (carbon blades bonded to aluminum crown somehow attached to carbon steerer with an aluminum sleeve inside).
One way or another, I'll end up finding out what the recommended approach is - and I'll update this thread when I do. It may be a few weeks however because we're still working out the frame geometry. The builder (it's not a seven frame) hasn't started building yet. I'm guessing 3-6 more weeks until frame and fork are in my hands. If you find any useful info, please let me know. :-)
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SevenOdonata
new member
Reged: 01/29/04
Posts: 19
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Sorry, wasn't clear about the last message. I didn't cut it, all the work was done by a LBS. I know what it looks like since I recently switched to a shorter stem.
The Al inner sleeve extends the whole length of the steerer tube from what I understand.
Now that you got me started on this, I may have to do some research now. If I find anything, I'll post something here.
Good luck with the ride.
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