Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
I have broken my Topolino C19s for the second time in a year and am considering replacing them with a more traditional wheel set. I love the way the Topos dampen road vibration but I really need a wheel set that I can ride for years without any problems.
I could buy pre-built wheels but for the same or less money I can have a set of wheels built. The wheels I am considering building will probably have DT Swiss 240s hubs, DT 1.1 double-eyelet rims and DT spokes.
My question, is there any advantage to buying pre-built wheels as opposed to custom wheels? My back-up wheel set is a hand-built set of Mavic CXP-33s with Campy Record Hubs. They have been rock solid reliable but do not ride, accelerate or climb like the Topolinos.
Thanks,
Bruce
Edited by Darby (06/03/08 07:18 PM)
|
Dave_Thompson
prophet
   
Reged: 12/19/03
Posts: 717
Loc: Spokane, Washington
|
|
Quote:
Darby wrote: I have broken my Topolino C19s for the second time in a year and am considering replacing them with a more traditional wheel set. I love the way the Topos dampen road vibration but I really need a wheel set that I can ride for years without any problems.
I could buy pre-built wheels but for the same or less money I can have a set of wheels built. The wheels I am considering building will probably have DT Swiss 240s hubs, DT 1.1 double-eyelet rims and DT spokes.
My question, is there any advantage to buying pre-built wheels as opposed to custom wheels? My back-up wheel set is a hand-built set of Mavic CXP-33s with Campy Record Hubs. They have been rock solid reliable but do not ride, accelerate or climb like the Topolinos.
Thanks,
Bruce
IMO. a set of 'custom' built wheels can/will be superior to a pre-built set of wheels mainly because your wheel builder can tailor them to to suit your specific needs. Plus more often than not a custom set of wheels will be less expensive that a pre-built set.
The key is to contact well-respected wheel builders and communicate with them what you would like to achieve with the wheels. Ergott Wheels, Mike Garcia, Ligero and Alchemy are a few of the above that come immediately to mind. Careful choice of tires and tire size will aid you in your quest also. Weigh too the cost/benefit ratio, of which your Topolinos are a good example; high cost/hassle factor.
-------------------- Steel lover, but then I like Ti with carbon too.
Licensed bike geek.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
Dave_Thompson wrote:
The key is to contact well-respected wheel builders and communicate with them what you would like to achieve with the wheels. Ergott Wheels, Mike Garcia, Ligero and Alchemy are a few of the above that come immediately to mind. Careful choice of tires and tire size will aid you in your quest also. Weigh too the cost/benefit ratio, of which your Topolinos are a good example; high cost/hassle factor.
Hi Dave,
I like the idea of having wheels built to my exact ride preferences. So far I have contacted Joe Young and have spent a little time Peter White's website. Joe is a very knowledgeable and I agree with his build philosophy. Durability is of the utmost importance to him, more so than the wheel?s looks.
I will check out the other wheel builders you suggested.
Thanks,
Bruce
|
skuke
captain
   
Reged: 12/22/03
Posts: 321
|
|
Quote:
Darby wrote: I have broken my Topolino C19s for the second time in a year
What broke and are you interested in selling them? How much for the pair?
Thanks
-------------------- Skuke
95 Carbonframes Tetra Pro
92 Bridgestone MB-1
90 Moser 51.151
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
skuke wrote:
Quote:
Darby wrote: I have broken my Topolino C19s for the second time in a year
What broke and are you interested in selling them? How much for the pair?
Thanks
The first time they broke it was the metal stud that goes between the spoke and the rim on the drive side. Then it was the same thing only on the non-drive side. I may be too heavy for these wheels. Topolino tells me that this is very rare. I have not had any problems with the hubs.
Yes, I do plan on selling them. However, I would probably first need to replace the spokes on the non-drive side of the wheel. The front wheel also has had the rim replaced. I was thinking that they might be worth about $400 - $450, but I don't really know. They have a Campy free-hub on them.
Bruce
|
ldlide
new member
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 7
|
|
If I were in the market for new wheels, I'd try Shimano WH 7850 SL, road tubeless. It looks like the road tubeless concept it getting some traction in the market place. You can use standard clincher tires and tubes as well as the tubeless tires from Hutchinson, and you just pop a tube in if you get a flat while on the road. I've got ten thousand maintenance free miles on Shimano WH 7701 and believe Shimano's wheel build quality is excellent. If you're using Campy shifters, you can use a jtek Shiftmate if you don't get perfect shifting on a Shimano cassette. (I am using Campy 10 shifters with Shimano 9 speed cassettes so that I can use mountain cassettes on my road bike when I need really low gears, using hubbub cable routing which obviates the need for an adapter.) I haven't tried them but have heard the ride quality is similar to that of tubulars, partly because you can run low pressure without risk of pinch flats.
I also have a set of Young Wheels: dt Swiss 240 hubs, Aerohead rims, and whatever dt Swiss spokes Joe recommended. These wheels are lighter at about 1500 grams for the pair and are the ones I actually use when riding in the mountains or at Texas Hellweek. These wheels have been durable and trouble free thus far, and I would not hesitate to buy again from Joe Young. I think it will be a while before I'm in the market for wheels again.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
ldlide wrote:
I also have a set of Young Wheels: dt Swiss 240 hubs, Aerohead rims, and whatever dt Swiss spokes Joe recommended. These wheels are lighter at about 1500 grams for the pair and are the ones I actually use when riding in the mountains or at Texas Hellweek. These wheels have been durable and trouble free thus far, and I would not hesitate to buy again from Joe Young. I think it will be a while before I'm in the market for wheels again.
I have heard good things about the Shimano wheels especially a new wheel that will be hitting the market soon called a WH-7850-C24-CL. However, I have Campy components and I was told by Shimano that they will not work on Campy.
I am interested in hearing your views on the difference between the Shimano wheels and the custom wheels that Joe Young built for you. How do they ride differently, perform differently, etc. I am still sort of torn between getting off the shelf wheels and having Joe build me a set. With all of the problems I have had with my Topolino wheels, I really like riding on them and may take a chance on their AX3.0 wheels which have deeper rims and therefore may eliminate my broken spoke problem.
Bruce
|
ndr
friend
Reged: 08/10/04
Posts: 27
Loc: Los Altos, CA
|
|
I had Bontrager X-Lites but recently had Velo Tech, in Palo Alto, build a set of wheels to my weight and riding style.
The new wheels use DT hubs, aero spokes and Velocity rims. They came in 30 gms lighter than the Bontragers and are much more comfortable and stable descending. They also use a crossing spoke pattern instead of the radial design.
I could not be happier with the new set and highly recommend wheels from a competent builder.
|
Bob_Ross
new member
Reged: 01/03/07
Posts: 11
Loc: New York, NY
|
|
Quote:
Darby wrote: The wheels I am considering building will probably have DT Swiss 240s hubs, DT 1.1 double-eyelet rims and DT spokes.
I've done a bunch of research, read up a lot on this ol' internet thingie, spoken to a lot of fellow cyclists and wheelbuilders, and I have yet to see any compelling reason why the wheelset you describe should not be the be-all/end-all for 90% of the recreational cyclists out there. That's apparently a killer combination that can be your everyday wheel or your race wheel, whether you weigh 135lbs or 215lbs. I'm planning on getting a set built before summer's end; hardest part is deciding *who* I'll have build them!
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
ndr wrote: I had Bontrager X-Lites but recently had Velo Tech, in Palo Alto, build a set of wheels to my weight and riding style.
The new wheels use DT hubs, aero spokes and Velocity rims. They came in 30 gms lighter than the Bontragers and are much more comfortable and stable descending. They also use a crossing spoke pattern instead of the radial design.
I could not be happier with the new set and highly recommend wheels from a competent builder.
This is what I was looking for. Someone that can compare the pre-built stuff to custom.
Thanks, it was very helpful.
Bruce
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
Bob_Ross wrote:
Quote:
Darby wrote:
The wheels I am considering building will probably have DT Swiss 240s hubs, DT 1.1 double-eyelet rims and DT spokes.
I've done a bunch of research, read up a lot on this ol' internet thingie, spoken to a lot of fellow cyclists and wheelbuilders, and I have yet to see any compelling reason why the wheelset you describe should not be the be-all/end-all for 90% of the recreational cyclists out there. That's apparently a killer combination that can be your everyday wheel or your race wheel, whether you weigh 135lbs or 215lbs. I'm planning on getting a set built before summer's end; hardest part is deciding *who* I'll have build them!
Bob,
Thanks for confirming what I had thought. Joe Young had recommended this wheel combination and told me it would be comfortable, fast and very reliable. In addition he said that the DT hubs are very easy to maintain.
I too am still considering builders, but Joe Young is at the top of my list. I think Joe puts extremely good wheels together. Take a look at his website and you will see his philosophy on wheels.
Bruce
web page
Edited by Darby (06/04/08 10:08 PM)
|
ldlide
new member
Reged: 01/26/04
Posts: 7
|
|
My experience with Young Wheels (dt Swiss 240 hubs and Velocity Aerohead rims) and my experience with Shimano 7701 wheels have been favorable. Here are the differences, as I see them. The Shimano wheels have a deeper rim and fewer spokes. I probably don't ride fast enough for their improved aerodynamics to make much difference, compared with the lighter, lower profile rim and more spokes (28F, 32R) of Joe Young's wheels. My Shimano wheels have the crossover spokes which are attached on the side of the rim. That requires that I remove the nylon screw on the Ultegra brakes which would otherwise hit the spokes, make noise, and wear out. The purpose of these screws is to contact the rim and give an audible signal when the brake pads are worn out. This is not an essential function. The Shimano wheels coast silently, while the dt Swiss rear hub makes a racket when coasting, like a Chris King hub. The freehub body on these 9 speed Shimano wheels is titanium, while it is aluminum and therefore more likely to get notched by cassette cogs on the dt Swiss hub. This has not been a problem as most of the cogs on my cassettes are on carriers and linked to other cogs rather than individual cogs. I expect to wear out the bearings in the freehub body before I wear out the splines holding the cassette. Both sets of wheels have been durable and are stiff enough that I cannot detect any flexibility. I can't really feel any difference when riding them. If I had my eyes closed, I'm sure I couldn't tell which set of wheels I had except by the different sounds made by the freehubs when coasting. The Shimano wheels are a little easier to pack in the S & S hard case when I travel because they have fewer spokes, but I have traveled conveniently with both sets of wheels. I wanted a conventional set of wheels after breaking a rear spoke on a Rolf Vector wheel in the middle of nowhere several years ago. That wheel would have been unrideable expect that my companion had a spare spoke taped to his frame which he was able to put on my Rolf wheel in 15 minutes by the side of the road. The Shimano wheel would probably not be rideable with a broken spoke, while the conventional wheels with more spokes would be okay. But I've had no trouble with the Shimano wheels and don't give any thought to the idea that a spoke could break. In short, I've been happy with both. But if I were buying wheels today, I would try to ride a set of Shimano road tubeless wheels. They take 9 or 10 speed cassettes, tubeless or standard clincher tires, and have a durable titanium freehub body. I also understand that Campy or Fulcrum will have road tubeless wheels on the market before the end of this year. I have several friends who've had Eurus wheels and been very pleased with them. If you have Campy shifters and don't want to deal with compatibility issues, you may wish to look at those Campy wheels.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
ldlide wrote: But if I were buying wheels today, I would try to ride a set of Shimano road tubeless wheels. They take 9 or 10 speed cassettes, tubeless or standard clincher tires, and have a durable titanium freehub body. I also understand that Campy or Fulcrum will have road tubeless wheels on the market before the end of this year. I have several friends who've had Eurus wheels and been very pleased with them. If you have Campy shifters and don't want to deal with compatibility issues, you may wish to look at those Campy wheels.
I also did a little reading on these new Shimano wheels and they are very impressive. Although, some of the articles I read say that tubeless tires for road bikes are still unproven. But, other articles I read say that they ride better than tubed clinchers, are easier to change and are more durable. One article even said that I wouldn?t need to carry tire tools, tubes or patch kits anymore which would mean I could get rid of my seat bag. I think this might be stretching things a little. However, tubeless tires might just be the next big thing. Not sure if I want to be one of the first guinea pigs or not.
Bruce
|
ndr
friend
Reged: 08/10/04
Posts: 27
Loc: Los Altos, CA
|
|
Darby,
I forgot to mention why I chose Velocity vs DT rims. My understanding was that it is easier to change a tire on the Velocity. They are also a little more "aero".
My spoke count is 28 and I weigh 165 lbs (170 after X-mas). The wheels descend as fast or faster than the Bontragers so I do not think the additional spokes make much of a difference. Maybe the fact that they are more stable allows me to be less nervous.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
I have been doing some research on tubeless tires to see if there are really any advantages to them. It is claimed that they are much more flat resistant, have lower rolling residence and ride better.
I found out that any road wheel can accept a tubeless tire if the rim strips are changed and a tubeless stem is added. Some wheels may require an air compressor to generate enough air to seal the bead. Other wheels can be pumped up with a hand pump.
Here is a video showing an ice pick being repeatedly jammed into the side wall of the tire which is instantly sealed by the two ounces of sealant in the tire.
web page
Bruce
|
gutefahrt
new member
Reged: 04/11/08
Posts: 22
|
|
Looks cool. But needing to add sealant every 3 weeks to 3 months doesn't sound like a perfect solution.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
gutefahrt wrote: Looks cool. But needing to add sealant every 3 weeks to 3 months doesn't sound like a perfect solution.
I hadn't heard anything about the sealant needing to be added every 3 weeks to 3 months. Where did you read that? That would certainly change things.
Bruce
|
gutefahrt
new member
Reged: 04/11/08
Posts: 22
|
|
Quote:
Darby wrote: I hadn't heard anything about the sealant needing to be added every 3 weeks to 3 months. Where did you read that? That would certainly change things.
Bruce
Stan's Tire and Rim Sealant will usually last from three weeks up to three months. At that time you simply add more. (Time will vary due to different tire characteristics). It leaves no mess in your tire.
http://www.notubes.com/tubeless_about.php
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
gutefahrt wrote:
Quote:
Darby wrote: I hadn't heard anything about the sealant needing to be added every 3 weeks to 3 months. Where did you read that? That would certainly change things.
Bruce
Stan's Tire and Rim Sealant will usually last from three weeks up to three months. At that time you simply add more. (Time will vary due to different tire characteristics). It leaves no mess in your tire.
http://www.notubes.com/tubeless_about.php
Well, that is no good. I guess I will stay with tubes. Adding gunk to my tires every three weeks to three months is more hassle than it is worth.
Thanks for letting me know.
Bruce
|
gutefahrt
new member
Reged: 04/11/08
Posts: 22
|
|
No prob. I'm interested in tubeless, too. I'm planning on building a bike this fall and am leaning toward Chorus. Campy's new wheelsets take tubeless or tube tires.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
gutefahrt wrote: No prob. I'm interested in tubeless, too. I'm planning on building a bike this fall and am leaning toward Chorus. Campy's new wheelsets take tubeless or tube tires.
The new tubeless wheels that Campy's offering looks like a good choice. The Shamal clinchers are on my short list. However, if I decided to go tubeless I could also have a set of custom wheels built and use them tubeless. So right now I am undecided which wheelset I will get.
Thanks,
Bruce
|
jaleel_da_sheik
new member
Reged: 02/25/05
Posts: 19
|
|
I am coming into this discussion as a mountain bike racer who has had a couple of seasons worth of racing on wheels converted over to stan's no-tube system using the rim strips, sealant and standard mtb tires. I was hesitant to use the tubless system at first after hearing about catastrophic blowouts when the tire was rolled off the rim (usually occured in gnarly terrain and a rider pushing the limits of low-end tire pressure). After getting fed up with changing thorn flats and pinch flats on my mountain bike I switched over stans and haven't had a flat tire in 2 years!
I realize I am coming into this from the MTB side of things, and am leary to use a stan's conversion kit on my road bike (due to higher pressures). However, the prospect of not having to worry about glass flats or thorn flats or pinch flats on my road bike has me champing at the bit to convert once I hear of some solid and positive feedback on the stans road conversion. I've been anxiously waiting for Stans to come out with a road system and will bite the bullet and convert once there has been some prolonged testing.
Granted, it is a pain to first get the stans conversion done (there is a learning curve to the stuff), but once you get them sealed up it is quite hassle free. I raced an entire year on my MTB and didn't have to add additional sealant. The messy part comes when you want to switch tires (again i'm speaking of MTB when it is more common to change tires due to differing riding conditions). For road biking, I keep the same tires on year-round and would have to mess with it minimally. Replacing a worn out tire would result in getting messy again, but I would hands-down rather get a little frustrated and messy in my garage setting up my no-tubes than have to deal with patching double flatted tubes out on the tarmac as the group i am riding with vanishes over the next hill. Baby them a little at home and forget about them on the trails (or road - hopefully!)
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
jaleel_da_sheik wrote: For road biking, I keep the same tires on year-round and would have to mess with it minimally. Replacing a worn out tire would result in getting messy again, but I would hands-down rather get a little frustrated and messy in my garage setting up my no-tubes than have to deal with patching double flatted tubes out on the tarmac as the group i am riding with vanishes over the next hill. Baby them a little at home and forget about them on the trails (or road - hopefully!)
Although I have become very experienced at changing tires, I too would rather change a tire in my garage than on the road. I ride a lot at night and changing a flat in the dark isn't something I enjoy doing. However, I also will wait to read some reviews before I making the switch to road tubeless.
Only adding sealant once a year isn't bad, but how do you know when it is time to add more sealant?
Also, there is suppose to be more choices in tubeless tires from other manufacturers hitting the market soon.
Thanks for the feedback,
Bruce
|
jaleel_da_sheik
new member
Reged: 02/25/05
Posts: 19
|
|
After sitting for awhile (overnight), the sealant will settle to the bottom of the tire - a quick vertical shake and you can hear the sealant splash/slop inside the tire. This is the rough guesstimate way of figuring out if you need more sealant.
The for-sure way to check is to let the tire sit for awhile and then pull just one tire bead off the rim at the bottom so you can look inside and see the quantity of sealant that is still moist. If needed, pour some more sealant in and snap the bead back over the rim. Now that the seal has been broken it will take some "babying" to get the seal re-established, but after a few times it really isn't bad.
On a newly installed conversion on my MTB it takes about a week of babysitting and fanagaling to get the seal to hold air for days on end without having to air back up - it is amazing how many holes actually exist on a brand new tire and around the bead. The sealant has to plug every one to hold air, but once it is done it is worry free.
Hopefully the road stans conversion works out because I'm also looking to get our road tandem (used for touring) converted as well as our road bikes. The prospect of converting my cyclocross bike over to tubless leaves a smile on my face!
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
jaleel_da_sheik wrote: After sitting for awhile (overnight), the sealant will settle to the bottom of the tire - a quick vertical shake and you can hear the sealant splash/slop inside the tire. This is the rough guesstimate way of figuring out if you need more sealant.
The for-sure way to check is to let the tire sit for awhile and then pull just one tire bead off the rim at the bottom so you can look inside and see the quantity of sealant that is still moist. If needed, pour some more sealant in and snap the bead back over the rim. Now that the seal has been broken it will take some "babying" to get the seal re-established, but after a few times it really isn't bad.
On a newly installed conversion on my MTB it takes about a week of babysitting and fanagaling to get the seal to hold air for days on end without having to air back up - it is amazing how many holes actually exist on a brand new tire and around the bead. The sealant has to plug every one to hold air, but once it is done it is worry free.
Hopefully the road stans conversion works out because I'm also looking to get our road tandem (used for touring) converted as well as our road bikes. The prospect of converting my cyclocross bike over to tubless leaves a smile on my face!
I sent off an email to Notubes.com, the people that make Stan's sealant. They tell me that the sealant will last 3 to 6 months, which isn't bad. The old sealant will evaporate so weight isn't really being added to the tire, or so they say.
I will wait to hear some reviews on road tubeless before I jump in.
Thanks again,
Bruce
|
jaleel_da_sheik
new member
Reged: 02/25/05
Posts: 19
|
|
I'd guess that the reply you got from the stans people was a "glass is half full" answer. Yes, the solution that the latex is suspended in does evaporate over time and I have seen this in tires I have been running for months. However, the latex is left behind when the solution evaporates leaving behind some rotating weight (glass is half empty).
This past race season my rear hub blew up and I was able to send the whole wheel back for repairs under warranty. In order to send it back, I had to remove my tires and rim strips. There was stans liquid still in the tires, but there were areas of layered, dried latex around the inside of the tire where I'm guessing the tires sat for a length of time (several days) before being rotated, allowing a thin "patch" of latex to adhere to the tire. I got the wheel back and reinstalled the stans setup. Had I added more stans without peeling those "patches" off and scrubbing out the inside of the tire from dried stans residue, I would have been increasing the sealant weight from what I initially put in.
Hopefully this makes sense - just trying to say that stans can build up over time (months-years) by adding new sealant and not removing some of the old dried up latex. Once again, messy and frustrating, but much better than flatting!
|
Nev
captain
   
Reged: 05/03/04
Posts: 373
Loc: Never where I want to be
|
|
Custom.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
jaleel_da_sheik wrote: I'd guess that the reply you got from the stans people was a "glass is half full" answer. Yes, the solution that the latex is suspended in does evaporate over time and I have seen this in tires I have been running for months. However, the latex is left behind when the solution evaporates leaving behind some rotating weight (glass is half empty).
This past race season my rear hub blew up and I was able to send the whole wheel back for repairs under warranty. In order to send it back, I had to remove my tires and rim strips. There was stans liquid still in the tires, but there were areas of layered, dried latex around the inside of the tire where I'm guessing the tires sat for a length of time (several days) before being rotated, allowing a thin "patch" of latex to adhere to the tire. I got the wheel back and reinstalled the stans setup. Had I added more stans without peeling those "patches" off and scrubbing out the inside of the tire from dried stans residue, I would have been increasing the sealant weight from what I initially put in.
Hopefully this makes sense - just trying to say that stans can build up over time (months-years) by adding new sealant and not removing some of the old dried up latex. Once again, messy and frustrating, but much better than flatting!
Wow, thanks for the info. Is it difficult to clean out the old Stans from the tire and wheel?
This might sound worse than it actually is. I invision getting out a paint scrapper and working on it for a few hours. Will a good brush and soap remove the old Stans? If the clean up isn't too difficult, tubeless might be a good thing.
Bruce
|
jaleel_da_sheik
new member
Reged: 02/25/05
Posts: 19
|
|
I've only cleaned that one tire out from stan's so I can't claim to have found the ultimate removal technique. As I recall, I was able to remove some of it with my fingers and some of it I scrubbed off with soap and a kitchen scrubbie. I probably won't have to do it again on that set of tires because they will be worn out before the stans inside dries up.
Road tires seem to wear out fairly quickly (especially if you get in lots of miles each year) and the stans will last longer than the tread life on your road tires. If/when I convert our road bikes over to tubless+stans I doubt that this procedure would be necessary due to the life span of the road tires.
|
Nev
captain
   
Reged: 05/03/04
Posts: 373
Loc: Never where I want to be
|
|
Quote:
Darby wrote: Wow, thanks for the info. Is it difficult to clean out the old Stans from the tire and wheel?
This might sound worse than it actually is. I invision getting out a paint scrapper and working on it for a few hours. Will a good brush and soap remove the old Stans? If the clean up isn't too difficult, tubeless might be a good thing.
Bruce
My experience from riding Stans tubeless on mountain bikes. I have both set ups, tubeless tires/rims and another Stans converted with strips -- only on mountain bikes. I've never had puncture issues on road so I still ride tubes.
Messy? Yea, it can be. It's not difficult. Anything still in there washes right out with a hose and water. I use a kitchen brushes and scrape them, even an old rag.
Anything that settles and dries peels off. It can also set on the bead where it hooks on the rim. That peels off in strips. Hours? Not at all. A few minutes at most.
For more tubeless info than you might care to know register and post up a question here: http://forums.mtbr.com/
Tubeless is pretty much standard in the mtb world.
|
Darby
sage
   
Reged: 08/03/06
Posts: 420
Loc: Orange County California
|
|
Quote:
Nev wrote:
Quote:
Darby wrote: Wow, thanks for the info. Is it difficult to clean out the old Stans from the tire and wheel?
This might sound worse than it actually is. I invision getting out a paint scrapper and working on it for a few hours. Will a good brush and soap remove the old Stans? If the clean up isn't too difficult, tubeless might be a good thing.
Bruce
My experience from riding Stans tubeless on mountain bikes. I have both set ups, tubeless tires/rims and another Stans converted with strips -- only on mountain bikes. I've never had puncture issues on road so I still ride tubes.
Messy? Yea, it can be. It's not difficult. Anything still in there washes right out with a hose and water. I use a kitchen brushes and scrape them, even an old rag.
Anything that settles and dries peels off. It can also set on the bead where it hooks on the rim. That peels off in strips. Hours? Not at all. A few minutes at most.
For more tubeless info than you might care to know register and post up a question here: http://forums.mtbr.com/
Tubeless is pretty much standard in the mtb world.
Nev,
Thanks for clarifying a few things. Well, the messy part isn't as bad as I thought it would be and something I could live with. I do not have many flats either but everytime it happens, it is always at the wrong time. As if there is ever a good time to get a flat.
If I could elimate the possibility of getting flats, I would be interested. However, I will wait and see how well the road tubeless system works.
Thanks,
Bruce
|
Darby
sage
  |